Camouflage clothing may be in vogue now, but in our violent world, is that wise? | Ellie Violet Bramley

HeyDuring his recent visit to Gaza, Steve Witkoff, the real estate mogul and Donald Trump’s special envoy to the Middle East, wore a dress Peak “camouflage”.. I write the word “camouflage” with inverted commas because it was blue, and amid the dusty devastation of Gaza, there was nothing in it — or the bag he was wearing with it — that helped Witkoff blend in.

It is a strange paradox that a style designed to melt military personnel into their surroundings – the word is derived from French Camouflage“Disguise” – when certain people wear it, in certain ways, it does the opposite. Witkoff is an extreme example.

But camouflage is like a chameleon. Military or pacifist, British or British Army, no pattern has a more functional original purpose or greater adaptability when deployed far from the battlefield. Context is king and camouflage reads very differently when it is Shown on a tie Worn by war veteran and “War Minister” Pete Hegseth, on the Louis Vuitton catwalk, in the fields of Glastonbury or even at an anti-conflict protest: one person’s saber rattling is another’s anti-war statement.

Perhaps it is her adaptability that means she has moments, as now, of growing popularity. Style-wise, it’s a symptom of the throwback moment to 2000, from Gap to Next, from Damson Madder to JW Anderson, it’s… no Mix everywhere. In the US, hunting camouflage has been seen adorning everything from Kamala Harris and Tim Walz’s baseball caps to right-wing liberals.

In terms of camouflage it is, says Voguea “chic alternative to denim”, is available at democratically low prices, as well as a relatively sustainable option – the likes of eBay are full of camouflage clothing. On the other hand, it is not only A gingham or paisley style pattern – the appearance of camouflage was a symptom Increased destruction in modern warsEven today, its military associations have become so entrenched that in some countries non-military personnel are not allowed to wear it. In many Caribbean countries, for example, it is prohibited except to active members of the police or military. South African National Defense Forces recently Issued warning To the public stop wearing camouflage.

For civilians, there are statements to be made because For its military associations: It was the countercultural atmosphere that brought camouflage to the backs of Vietnam War protesters and Jimi Hendrix. Peacekeepers who wear it benefit from its military status. For others, same as before Moschino designer Jeremy Scott“Camouflage is a classic, no different than plaid or polka dots.” Even Claudia Söding Winkelmann has worn it in the past. Sure, it can be fun to wear – I know, having spent the late ’90s singing along to Never Ever in All Saints in camouflage-inspired battles.

Naturally, for lack of a better word, there was this moment. The world feels turbulent. And maybe I always did. But there is evidence that it is becoming increasingly volatile – one non-profit organization recently estimated that global conflict has doubled in the past five years, and that one in eight people worldwide have been exposed to it.

There are devastating conflicts taking place among civilian populations, in cities in Sudan, Ukraine and Gaza. In the United States, troops are being deployed on city streets in inspiring and unprecedented ways A recent New York Times article Identify various camouflage uniforms for federal forces, from the National Guard to ICE.

Fashion, both in terms of what is sent to the catwalks but also in everyday life – the person picking up a camouflage jacket from army surplus or Depop – communicates all of this, whether consciously or unconsciously. Look at Elsa Schiaparelli, who presented a military-themed collection in the run-up to the declaration of war in France in the 1930s. Fashion loves drama, and unfortunately there is nothing more dramatic than war.

Civilians who wish to wear camouflage can be a response to, and deliberately nod to, a frightening world; They could make a sharp anti-war statement or a statement of readiness for battle even while picking up a pint of milk. But in an increasingly divided world, how this message will be received is becoming murkier. And the idea of ​​wearing a print designed to help people avoid detection, for fun, poses an added complication when you look at it through the lens of those living in conflict zones who can’t really hide.

More broadly, the politics of who is entitled to wear civilian or military uniforms have become increasingly fraught – see the political battles over Volodymyr Zelensky’s military-style clothing and his decision not to wear civilian uniforms until the war in his country is over. Melania Trump’s military-style outfits can look uncomfortably close to military cosplay, like the time she dressed up as “dictator chic.” Alexander McQueen green suit To the 2020 Republican National Convention.

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Questions about the “suitability” of camouflage exist in the ether. This was the subject of an article published by the New York Times last summer in which fashion critic Vanessa Friedman said she had officially changed her position on him. The last time is Received an inquiry Asks: “Can I still wear camouflage?” It was 2021, right after the Capitol insurrection, and a number of the mob were wearing this veil. At the time, she noted that camouflage was fine as long as it was clearly a fashion item and didn’t look like a uniform. But this year she said she changed her advice out of respect for the military, after receiving a letter from a veteran who described the fashion choice as “resembling stolen courage.” But also the state of the world. As Friedman puts it: “Wearing camouflage as a fashion style seems like an increasingly tone-deaf and potentially dangerous choice.”

All of this is to say that blurring is complex and that the same context that makes it seem relevant is also what makes it seem particularly loaded. Do I think it is inappropriate? No. Do I want to? This camouflage shirt But do you think I might feel a little tight wearing it? Yes.

• Ellie Violet Bramley is a freelance writer

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