How to apply glycolic acid to your face, according to dermatologists

Interesting skincare ingredients can take off overnight on social media, but the acid of the moment doesn’t always come with an instruction manual. Are you wondering how to apply glycolic acid to your face? TikTok will tell you all about its multitasking superpower, but we asked dermatologists exactly how to incorporate it into your routine.

What is glycolic acid?

If you need a full crash course on glycolic acid and how it works, we’ve got you covered, but for a quick refresher: “Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together.” Janet Graf,” says an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine luster. “Due to its small molecular size, it penetrates quickly and deeply, helping to resurface dull skin and boost cell turnover for brighter, smoother skin.”

So, what sets glycolic acid apart from other common chemical exfoliants, like azelaic acid or salicylic acid? “Among the alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic is the simplest in structure and smallest, and has the lowest molecular weight.” Kenneth Howe, MDa dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City, previously said luster. Due to its small molecular weight, it is able to penetrate the skin particularly deeply, helping to enhance skin elasticity and target acne as well as breaking down dead skin cells on the surface.

How to apply glycolic acid to your face

A quick search for glycolic acid products will turn up cleansers, peel pads, and concentrates—which doesn’t make it easy to know where to start. With any new skincare activity, you’ll need to tailor an application technique to suit your skin type and concerns. If you’re new to using glycolic acid, Dr. Graf says there’s one fairly universal rule: “Start by using it once or twice a week, then increase as your skin adjusts. Using it too much can cause dryness or sensitivity.”

Glycolic acid for sensitive skin

If your skin is prone to irritation, Dr. Graf advises looking for less than 10% glycolic acid formulations for home use. An easy way to test the waters is to choose a face wash. “A glycolic cleanser can get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a glycolic leave-on product if you’re not sure if your skin can tolerate it or not,” says Alex Shapiro, dermatologist at climax In New York City, he said luster.

Dr. Graf also points out that for very sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin, glycolic acid may be entirely too harsh. “Gentle exfoliants, such as lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), may be better options,” she says.

Glycolic acid for normal to acne-prone skin

If your skin responds well to skincare acids (or if you’ve built up a tolerance), one of the most effective ways to administer glycolic acid is through chemical peels. You can opt for medical peels at a dermatologist’s office once a month, or use peeling pads containing glycolic acid at home, which is more convenient. Since it is less effective, it can be used two to three times a week.

“If you want something multitasking, Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Peeling Pads Dr. Graf recommends combining glycolic with lactic and salicylic acids for smoother, brighter skin without irritation. Charlotte Tilbury Super Radiance Facial Resurfacing To enhance glow in oily and combination skin types, “as it can help combat clogged pores and acne-prone skin.”

Peeling pads are particularly easy to use, because they’re already saturated with the formula: simply hold the pad with clean hands, then swipe it over your face and neck. Avoid the eye area, and make sure not to press too hard or rub. If you’re using a bottled toner or glycolic acid solution, Tracy Evans, MD, board-certified dermatologist and medical director of Pacific dermatology and cosmetic surgeryIt is recommended to use a piece of cotton to apply the product (in the same way) as a first layer after cleansing the skin.

Another option is to use a glycolic acid mask: Dr. Evans suggests applying it once a week for about 10 minutes. Just make sure to wash it well and follow fender repair products.

Although it may take a little trial and error to find which method works best with your skincare routine, remember that you should only test one method at a time. Using glycolic acid in multiple steps of your routine — or using concentrated products every day — “can lead to dry, irritated skin,” says Dr. Evans.

Combining glycolic acid with other active substances

If you’re adding an exfoliating acid to your repertoire, it’s also important to balance it with its hydrating and soothing counterparts. “Glycolic pairs well with hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide,” says Dr. Graf.

On the other hand, if you already have a strong acid like retinol in your diet, you generally shouldn’t mix it with a new glycolic acid product. Using glycolic acid with other products that target cell turnover “can overwhelm your skin and lead to irritation,” according to Dr. Graf.

How long will it take to see results?

It is not uncommon to experience some mild side effects when first starting to use glycolic acid. “Mild tingling, dryness, or flaking is common at first, especially if you’re new to using exfoliating acids,” says Dr. Graf. If you notice severe irritation or redness, that’s a sign to try a formula with a lower concentration of glycolic acid — or reduce frequency of use.