To wash or not to wash? How to care for your knitwear: expert tips to stop shrinking, wobbles and moths | fashion
Wool is an incredible natural fiber. It has insulating properties, is moisture wicking, breathable and completely biodegradable. It’s also the most recycled clothing fiber in the world, according to the British Daily Mail Woolmarkit can be recycled into “new” wool by shredding the fibers and mechanically re-spinning them, or “unknit” clothing and using the wool again (see Roof and iinouiio For more details).
Wool also has a reputation for being difficult to care for. But is it so? We met the experts to discover the best ways to clean and care for your knitwear, so you can keep your roll collars, cardigans and wire knits looking beautiful and used for as many years as possible.
How to take care of your knitwear
To wash or not to wash?
We’ve all shrunk your favorite wool sweater in the wash, so what if the answer is to not wash your knitwear at all? “It just needs to be comfortable between wears,” says the knitwear designer. Genevieve Sweeney. “Hanging it outside on a new day is very helpful and brings it back to life.” Ruth Alice Rands, founder of British knitwear company Herd, agrees: “For knitwear containing any type of wool, it’s best to wash it as little as possible. Wool is naturally rich in lanolin, which means it wicks away odors and spills, and more often than not airing out will restore it to condition.”
Replace washing with steaming
The British weather doesn’t always allow for hanging knitwear outside to freshen up, and that’s where the hand steamer comes into play. “Steaming is a great tool in knitwear maintenance and works well to freshen garments and bring them back into shape,” says Rands. “Make sure to always let it dry flat after steaming depending on the wash.”
“Every wash, no matter how gentle, puts stress on the fibres,” adds Frige Lowenhaupt, co-founder of the clothing care brand. Steamer. “Steaming, on the other hand, instantly freshens clothes. It smoothes out wrinkles, removes odors, kills bacteria and brings the fibers back to life.”
Can you “un-shrink” knitwear??
While it is possible to stretch a shrunken knit, the results will depend on how much it has shrunk – it will likely never be the same again. “If it’s a little tight or a little felted, giving the sweater a good steam, to loosen up the fibers, giving it a gentle stretch can fix it,” Sweeney says.
For bigger disasters, try soaking them in a bath of baby shampoo before squeezing out the water and putting them on the towel. “Stretch the knit, pulling it down lengthwise, then across the width,” she says. “You want the fibers to relax again, so avoid heat and let them air dry. Once they’re dry, give them another good steam and stretch them out.”
How to remove stains…
If your jacket is stained or very dirty, it may be necessary to wash it. In this case, technique is key. “Spot cleaning with a wool detergent will — almost magically — remove most marks,” says Rands. “If washing is unavoidable, always hand wash it with a gentle detergent and don’t move it too often. Basically, heat plus movement equals felting/shrinking, so move it in the sink as little as possible and never wring it.”
Sweeney’s technique involves soaking once a year. “Run cold water in the shower – I find that lukewarm water can cause some wools to shrink. Add a little wool wash (or hair shampoo if you don’t have any) and swirl it around the water until it dissolves. Place the knitwear in the bath, making sure it’s completely covered with water. Gently rub a dab of wool wash onto any dirty spots. Leave it for half an hour, then rinse.”
…and how to dry
Never wring out wet knitwear. Instead, press them gently before placing them on a towel as flat as possible, or on a horizontal rail if you have one. Never – never – never put your knitwear in the dryer.
Mites off
Prevention is key, but what actually works to keep mites away? Sweeney takes a natural approach with lavender, bay leaves, rosemary, and cedar shavings. But Rands takes no prisoners. “It’s absolutely safe to store knitwear in airtight boxes (those with clips on the side are ideal) and put them away [items] Place in a freezer bag in the freezer for a week at a time during the summer. This removes any chance of any butterflies surviving.
“The usual cycle of moths is to lay dormant in the spring, and in fact when the eggs hatch they cause damage, so I rotate my knitwear once through the fridge in the summer (not spring).”
If not, just wearing all your knitwear regularly can help, she says. “Moths don’t like light. Knitwear stored in dark places for long periods of time attracts moths, so it’s best to wear them regularly or freezer treat them in the summer to ensure the eggs never hatch.”
Best way to dibol
Beloved knitwear can start to fray, especially in areas that rub, such as underarms. Removing the balls can freshen the piece, but it’s important to remove the balls from your knitwear carefully. Sweeney uses a cedar comb every few months, while Rands gently pulls out the bubbles as they appear.
“There is no fixed rule for how often, it all depends on how frequently and how active you are wearing the clothing,” says Lowenhaupt. “Some knitwear may need a quick touch-up every few times, others only occasionally.”
Embrace visual reform
Creative and straightforward knitwear repair has become increasingly popular as we better understand the value of the fabrics, fibers and clothing we wear, and there are services all over the country that can repair your knitwear. “One of my favorite people was a customer who repaired his Vivienne Westwood jacket that was full of moth holes,” says Daisy Harvey, the company’s founder. Loom applicationwhich connects people with skilled creatives who can repair their worn-out items. “He collaborated with an embroiderer on the fall leaf design. He transformed the entire piece into something even more special.”
For larger holes in areas like the elbows, consider patches, and when your wool sweater finally gets past the point of redemption, make sure it’s a 100% natural fibre, and if so, shred it and add it to the compost.
For more ideas to help your favorite items last longer:
From beeswax to baby wipes: How to make your leather last a lifetime
‘Glass cutting boards should be illegal’: How to take care of your kitchen knives
From clothes to cleaning tablets: how to make your coffee machine last longer
Hannah Rochelle is a fashion journalist, writing about – and experimenting with – slow, relaxed style, live on her Substack Silhouette. This includes everything from wearing exclusively flat shoes and investing heavily in rubber-Linen trousers at the waist, to call for dehumidifiers rather than tripping DrYes, and learn to sew